Weakened by the pandemic, fashion only aspires to get its head out of the water. The menswear week which took place in Paris from June 22 to 26 was rich in tangy, festive and sensual collections – like a desire to clear your head after complicated months. This did not prevent three labels on the official calendar from standing out by venturing into more unique terrain. That of a fashion which resonates with the societal polemics which punctuate the news: immigration, race, ecology.
For his signature Namacheko, Dilan Lurr mentions the status of immigrants in his own way. “I started from my own situation, from this feeling of being uprooted that inhabits me, explains this thirty-something of Kurdish origin who now lives in Antwerp, after passing through Lund, in Sweden. I worked geometric patterns on knits in a nod to this obsession with symmetry that the arts of Islam have, metallic buttons like traditional coins, typical pompoms on coats or skirts. . “
He added two popular references that he kneaded in his own way. The ugly Duckling, by Hans Christian Andersen, first of all, with whom he identifies and who pushed him to create dissonant silhouettes. And Star Wars, “Which is based on a systematic opposition between one and the other, the good guys and the bad guys, not far from what we sometimes hear about this opposition between locals and immigrants”. We can see the influence of the saga in futuristic touches, openwork knits, textured coats and eel skin pants. “In Sweden, the status of immigrants is not simple but there is more tolerance than in France or Belgium, where I see more divisions on this subject”, observe Dilan Lurr.
Reinterpreting the look of chic suburbs
Based in Berlin, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby from GmbH announce it straight out: “We have never been afraid to be political. ” The rising underground duo – they were appointed artistic directors of the Italian house Trussardi at the end of May – have worked a lot so far around their heritage (one, born in Germany, has Turkish origins; the other, born in Norway, comes from a Pakistani family). “This season, we wanted to decolonize our own mind, reverse the paradigm to address ‘whiteness’. We wanted to understand: do those who have white skin know that they are white? “
They started from stereotypes “Typically WASP: Lady Di, the chic suburbs look, the riding club” and interpret them with their paw. In addition to their signature double-fly pants, ironic cowboy shirts and riding boots, cardigans thrown over the shoulders, furs, tops with open shoulders or shirts tied above the navel appear. “Our intention was to show that we can treat racial subjects with a little humor”, underlines the duo, which adds to the whole a t-shirt “Free Palestine”.
Rémi Bats and Hugues Fauchard, the creators ofUniform, had already decided to work on the silhouette of the aviator when, in April, they were offended to hear Léonore Moncond’huy, the EELV mayor of Poitiers, declare that “The air must no longer be part of children’s dreams today”. The phrase – “An awkwardness”, later conceded the councilor – had agitated the debates of the news channels continuously. “That air transport poses problems is the truth, and we are the first to campaign for reasonable production on a human scale. But we found the idea of wanting to annihilate dreams to be sordid ”, relate le couple.
Their video, one of the most poetic of fashion week, features, in the Vexin countryside, two boys who try in vain to fly a wooden plane. “They won’t succeed, but they try: that’s what we find beautiful. ” The designers, who manufacture their pieces in France, dress them in zipped suits, aviator scarves, floating linen suits, white cotton parka, vests open at the back as if to attach a parachute and military leather belts. The embossed collar of the sweatshirts mimics the tracks of an airplane’s tires in the sand. The two-tone knits (gray and blue, or blue and orange) in vanisage create sweaters that suggest the clearings crossing the sky. A sense of detail that allows their work to take off far, far above political controversies.
Mode of thought, a series of great interviews with creators